A green wonderland of fjords
FAQ. The way we plan our trips
Sometimes, I get asked about our family trips: how I find places, create itineraries, and book accommodations. It takes a lot of time, but I enjoy the process. I decided to address a few questions my friend sent me. I hope the answers will be helpful to you.
How do I usually plan an itinerary?
Planning the first steps of any trip is not my most beloved part. Starting anything from scratch is always a struggle. I am no exception. Where to start? Where to search for destinations in a new country? How to make everyone happy?
As for this particular trip, we knew that our plan was to rent a car and see the fjords in Norway. Since we prefer driving instead of using public transport and taxis, the first important part of our trip was settled.
We had to go to the western part of the country to see the fjords. If you Google it and look up places to visit, almost every page mentions arriving in Bergen. This is why I started searching for tickets from Dublin to Bergen, as we were staying in Ireland before our trip to Norway. In fact, this is why Norway became our destination for a family trip this year. At first, we wanted to go to Iceland, but after checking accommodation options, we changed our minds. Iceland was much more expensive, and almost everything was already booked. So, we chose Norway for summer 2024. We were lucky to find a direct flight with Norwegian Wideroe Airlines.
Usually, we go for 12-14 days, but we had to celebrate Amelia’s birthday in Switzerland, so the decision was made to arrive two days before the big day. We decided to spend 10 days in Norway since we tend to take longer trips in the summer. For short school breaks in autumn and winter, we go for a week, but in the summer or spring, we opt for longer trips. The plan for summer 2024 was to spend a month in Ireland—just me and the girls—and then another week in Switzerland after Norway. Not the cheapest countries on our list, I know, but we love to cool down in the summer after enduring the intense heat of May and June in Dubai.
How do I research?
I usually feel lost for the first few days, especially with this trip. But what I did was Google "7-day itinerary in Norway to see fjords" and found a few nice articles with ideas for the trip. The itineraries were too active for our family, so I wrote down the main must-see places in the region to create our itinerary. Traveling alone or as a couple is a different experience, but I knew I didn’t want to spend more than 3-4 hours in the car with kids. Therefore, I found the northernmost destination on the map—Aalesund—and planned a route to get there from Bergen, taking a slightly different way back. We also had to stop in Stavanger to see our friend, which shortened our road trip a bit, but it was fine. So, our journey ended up being 9 days long, or 8.5 days, since we didn’t see much after arriving in Bergen from Dublin.
I Googled the distances and then started searching on Booking.com or Airbnb for good overnight options. The idea was to drive during the day, stop in the evening at a rented place, and then continue the next morning. This plan works perfectly for us, so I stuck with it.
Which sites do I follow?
I don’t follow any specific sites. I just Google what I need and find the best options for us. We love nature, so I focus on that aspect of any trip. I gather ideas from various pages and create my own itinerary. I also have a nice book about traveling with kids, and sometimes I read the suggestions it offers. It’s only two pages per country, but at least it highlights activities kids would enjoy.
This time, I even asked ChatGPT for recommendations on places to visit between certain destinations. While some of the suggestions weren’t so interesting, we still found our way.
What are the points I consider while planning?
I always start with flight tickets. For the last few years, I’ve only used Google Flights to find the best budget options for our family of four. Sometimes changing the days, times, or trip duration can make a difference (like 10 days instead of 12). Opting to fly on a Sunday instead of a Friday or Saturday can also yield more convenient options with other airlines. Google Flights shows a price graph, where you can see better deals. My mindset is this: save on flight tickets and spend the money on better accommodation or more exciting activities that will create lasting memories. I try to choose flights with no more than one stopover and stick to trusted providers, as much as possible.
The algorithm is simple: we buy the flight tickets, then we book places to stay overnight, and only then do I plan the activities we can do. Even during the trip, the plan can change due to weather, mood, or unexpected discoveries. I always leave space for new ideas and activities.
How do I plan a budgeted trip?
To be honest, we don’t usually have a strict budget, but there are a few guidelines that work for our family (2 adults and 2 kids). Everyone has their own budget and preferences, but I’ll share ours:
Flight tickets: From Dubai to our destination and back, we aim for a price range of 9,000-12,000 AED (2,500-3,300 USD). Within Europe, it’s usually much cheaper.
Accommodation: Most often, I look for something in the 150-250 USD range. In some places, like Ireland last year, the prices were only from 200-250 USD. In Japan, however, we found much better options. Occasionally, we’re willing to pay more (up to 400-500 USD) for a better experience or a prime location within walking distance of major attractions. I’d rather choose a more expensive but comfortable option. When you travel, you want to enjoy your time, and it’s worth paying for new experiences and comfort. In the end, it’s the time spent with family that you remember, not necessarily how much money you spent, though that does matter too.
Food: We usually have only lunches during our trips, sometimes breakfast and dinner. We might order one portion for the kids because they rarely finish a full meal. Often, it works, but sometimes we need two portions. If we stay in a hotel, I try to find one that includes breakfast, or we buy food the day before and prepare it ourselves in the morning. Quite often, we skip dinner or buy something from a supermarket to prepare at our rented place.
Car rental: You don’t have much flexibility here. Prices depend on the country you’re visiting. We usually choose Sixt or Hertz and try to get good insurance.
Itinerary of our trip
Day 1 - Arrival in Bergen at 4 pm – Ytre Arna
Day 2 - Ytre Arna – Flam (railway in Flam – Myrdal – 2 hours round trip )– Gudvangen - Stalheim Folkemuseum - Vik
Day 3 - Vik - Hopperstad Stave Church - ferry ride from Vangsnes to Hella – Sogndal - Glacier Museum - Boyabreen Glacier - Supphellebreen Glacier - Fosskamben
Day 4 - Fosskamben – Lom – Bismo - Teigen Tun
Day 5 - Lom - Norwegian Fjellsenter (National parks museum) - Turistveg: Gamle Strynefjellsvegen Ost – Geiranger – Eidsdal – Linge - Jordbaerstova Hotel
Day 6 - Jordbaerstova Hotel - Tafjord Museum – Zakariasdammen – Alesund - Alesund Aquarium – hiking in Sukkertoppen
Day 7 - Byrampen Viewpoint – Alesund downtown - Loen Skylift
Day 8 - Olden town - Sunnfjord Museum - Nessane
Day 9 - Balestrand - St. Olaf’s Church – Voss city and a Voss rope to the mountain – Bergen
Day 10 - Bergen – Stavanger – afternoon walk in the city of Stavanger
Day 11 - Stavanger - Basel
Day 1
6th August
Arrival in Bergen at 4 pm – Ytre Arna
Driving Time: 40 - 50 minutes
Overnight stay: Ytre Arna
Just a few hours before our departure to Norway, I spontaneously decided to check where exactly the creators of the movie "Frozen" got their inspiration in Norway. Our girls loved this movie when they were around five years old, and Amelia was even younger. I knew it was inspired by Norway, but I had no idea if it was any particular place. I discovered that the city of Bergen was one of the main inspirations for the movie's architecture. Interestingly, a few places in the region we planned to visit also influenced the film.
The flight lasted less than two hours. We even forgot that we had ordered spaghetti bolognese for the kids on board. To our surprise, they ate almost everything, which is not usually the case. They said it was very tasty. Meals are not usually included, but you can purchase snacks and drinks on board. If the flight lasts more than 45 minutes, tea and coffee are complimentary. I ordered tea for myself. Overall, our experience with Wideroe was very positive.
Our first task upon arrival was to get our rental car. There was no queue at the counter, and we initially thought we would get our car in a few minutes. However, it took quite a long time to get everything organized because the staff was very slow, and the car was not ready yet, even though Alex had booked everything in advance. Anyway, we eventually got our car. We paid 1200 euros for nine days, including tire and windshield insurance.
I wanted to see the house of the composer Grieg, but due to timing, it was too late. So, we decided to go straight to the place where we would stay for one night. It was about 40 minutes from the airport. The maximum speed limit in Norway is 80 km/h, and within the city, it ranges from 50 to 70 km/h. This is why distances might not seem far, but due to the speed limits, everything takes longer. Especially for us, who usually drive 100 km/h in Dubai. In Ireland, the speed limit was also around 80-100 km/h in many places. On the other hand, the landscape is so breathtaking that it is the perfect opportunity to enjoy the view. Ireland was amazing, but Norway is simply breathtaking. Probably because I love mountains and always dreamed of seeing fjords, but I believe everyone falls in love with this country.
We stayed in an apartment in Ytre Arna. It was a house with a separate entrance for us underneath the main building. It wasn't anything special, but everything was clean and nice.
Day 2
7th August
Ytre Arna – Flam (railway in Flam – Myrdal – 2 hours round trip )– Gudvangen - Stalheim Folkemuseum - Vik
Driving Time: 4 hours
Overnight stay: a cabin close to the town Vikoyri
The next day was a bit long because the distances between places took around 3-4 hours in total. Before our trip, I read about a famous train that travels through the most beautiful landscape in Norway, and possibly the world. It's called the Flam train. It can be a round trip from Flam to Myrdal and back, with one way taking about an hour. I decided to check availability online just a day before, initially thinking of booking for 5:30 pm. However, it would take two hours, and we had to head back to our next stop. So, I checked availability the day before the trip. Only two slots remained: 8:25 am and 6:30 pm. 6:30 pm would be too late, so I suggested we go for the first train in the morning. That meant we had to leave the house at 5:30 am since the trip would take 2 hours and 20 minutes. Luckily, Alex agreed, and we decided to go to bed early and be ready very early.
Our day started at 4:45 am, and by 5:30 am, we were ready to set off.
It drizzled a bit the whole way to Flam, but it stopped as soon as we got on the train. Moreover, we realized what a good idea it was to come first because the parking was empty, and the railway station was not very busy. Individual tourists like us had separate wagons, while groups (mostly Chinese) had another one.
The train trip was totally worth getting up so early. I had read online about which side to sit on the train but totally forgot about it and we ended up on the left side.
Just a minute later, a German family of four took the right-side seats next to us. I turned my head and saw that almost all the seats on the right were taken. Only then did it occur to me that it might be the better place to sit. And I was right, but not completely. The train ran along the mountains and had nice views on both sides, but the best views were mostly on the right.
When we got to Myrdal, we had only five minutes before the same train headed back to Flam. I told everyone that we had to take the right seats with the opening window (a tip I remembered from a review on Google Maps). We chose a different side now because the first morning train wasn't that busy. A few minutes later, a bunch of tourists rushed onto the train and took every available seat. I was glad we didn’t wait until the last minute.
The only thing that annoyed me was the German father from that family, who turned out to be very enthusiastic about mobile photography. He kept running from one side of the train to the other (where we were) to take hundreds of photos and videos. On our way back, I mostly saw his head and phone through my open window because he also chose the right position. There was another Turkish couple, as enthusiastic as the German dad, but they were more focused on selfies with a mobile gimbal. His head with the phone was out of the window 99% of the time on our way to the mountain. I realized how annoying and self-centered people can be when pursuing their own wishes. I think I am annoyed by this attitude because I usually can't bring myself to be so pushy, even when I wish I could be in some circumstances.
Then we went to have lunch at the Viking Valley restaurant in Gudvangen. I ordered cod, Alex ordered goulash, and the kids had meatballs and sausages with mashed potatoes. Everything was very tasty. Prices in Norway are quite high, even compared to Dubai. The lunch costs around 240 dirhams, which is 60 euros for four people. We usually pay the same amount for lunch in Dubai.
After the meal, we took a short walk to see the fjord. It wasn’t busy, and there was a kids’ playground right next to the shore. I should mention that it started to rain when we got off the train and drove to our next stop. But after we ate, we went outside to find the sun starting to shine, and the weather was very pleasant. The girls spent some time on the playground while I took photos and videos, and then we headed to our next stop.
After that, we started our trip to Stalheim Folkemuseum. We parked near the Stalheim Hotel and took a short walk to the museum, which features Norwegian houses and huts dating back to the 18th century. It was a pleasant walk with nobody around. We saw how the houses were built with almost no windows, roofs covered with moss and grass, and everything made from wood and set on stone pillars.
Next, we headed to the town of Vik, traveling north and deeper into the fjords. The route was breathtaking, with many spots to stop and take photos. This journey reminded me of our trip to Iceland in 2019. We saw a few patches of snow on the mountaintops. After crossing the peak of the mountain and being far above the clouds, it started to rain heavily, and visibility was poor. I saw a cafe and asked to stop briefly to take some photos of Vik because the view was beautiful, even in the rain. A minute later, the heavy rainfall began, and I barely had time to hide in the car. Alex wanted to drive on, but I asked to stay a bit longer, hoping the rain would stop soon. To our surprise, a few minutes later, a bright evening sun came out and painted a rainbow above the city and fjords. It was amazing. A few minutes later, several cars stopped, and people rushed to take photographs. When we stopped, there was nobody around. As usual, we were ahead of the crowd.
Our trip ended with a short walk in Vik and a 20-minute detour to our next house. The location is exactly what I had envisioned for a long time—a house nestled in nature with the sun setting behind the fjords.
Day 3
August 8th 2024
Vik - Hopperstad Stave Church - ferry ride from Vangsnes to Hella – Sogndal - Glacier Museum - Boyabreen Glacier - Supphellebreen Glacier - Fosskamben
Driving Time: 2:30 – 3 hours
Overnight stay: a condo near Fosskamben
Today was a much calmer day. After yesterday’s long trip, I knew we should stay closer to our destination. To our surprise, the checkout time from this lodge wasn’t 10 or 11 am, but 1 pm, which is very rare. So we knew we could sleep in and enjoy a slow morning.
I woke up at 7:30 am, took a blanket, and settled in a sofa to enjoy the view from the living room windows, but I fell asleep within seconds. I didn’t wake up until around 9 am or even later. Milana, who had fallen asleep at 8 pm, didn’t wake up until after 10 am. I believe everyone was very tired, but this time, we weren’t in a hurry. We made breakfast: I had a salad with eggs, tuna, and goat cheese; Amelia ate yesterday’s spaghetti with sausages; Milana had bread with local pate; and Alex chose eggs and sausages. We also had tea with some chocolate. The weather was about to surprise us with something beautiful.
It was drizzling when we woke up, but then the sun came out, and a beautiful rainbow arched across the fjord. Half an hour later, another rainbow appeared in a slightly different spot. I miss these weather changes in Dubai. You never know what surprise nature has in store for you. It rains heavily, and then, in a short time, the sun comes out, and you feel like living in a moment without knowing what will happen next. That’s how it was today—constant changes.
First, we visited Hopperstad Stave Church, an ancient wooden church dating back to the 1100s, restored in the 1880s. The church is one of the oldest stave churches still standing in Norway. It was a unique experience, even though we’re not usually big on visiting churches. But if you’re in Vikoyri, in Vik Municipality in Vestland county, it’s a must-visit. The interior and exterior are truly unique.
While walking back to the parking lot, I opened Wikipedia to read about Vik Municipality and accidentally found out that it’s known for its cheese factory that produces Gamalost, a traditional Norwegian cheese. I have no idea what it tastes like, and I suspect it might not be the greatest, but we couldn’t miss the chance to buy a piece, especially since the shop was just a minute's drive away. It’s not easy to find, even in Norway. I’ll let you know our impressions once we try it. We bought cheese in Ostebaren cafe.
After that, we took a walk in Vikoyri, which turned out to be a wonderful town with many tourists. There was a large cruise ship a bit away from the shore, and the streets were crowded with tourists.
Then we headed to the ferry to cross to the other side of the fjord. We took a ferry from Vangsnes to Hella. There’s no need to pay a fee at the time because a special card is inserted in your car, and you get the bill after returning the car to the rental place. Everything was smooth, and we didn’t even hear the ferry’s engine.
We drove to our next destination, a cafe I found on Google Maps with good reviews. While driving, Alex saw a sign for a tourist spot. I wasn’t sure what we would find there since Google Maps had no information about it. It turned out to be a nice beach where, theoretically, you could swim. Theoretically for us, but practically for two elderly women, we saw behind the bushes who were already changing into warm, dry clothes after their swim in the sea. Well, it was raining, and I was pleasantly surprised to see people swimming in not-so-warm water.
Our next stop was the Dampskipskaien Cafe in Sogndal, a lovely place with tasty fish soup and a pulled pork burger. The kids couldn’t decide what to order, so we got them a cheese and ham toast. They also ate potatoes and soup from our meal, along with some tasty bread with garlic butter. There was a shelf with books and board games. Amelia chose a game, and we played a bit before our meal arrived.
We still had some time, so I suggested going to the Glacier Museum, which usually closes at 7 pm. It was 5 pm, so we had plenty of time. Our next accommodation was halfway between the cafe and the museum anyway.
We arrived before 6 pm and easily got inside, without any queues. I believe the buses with tourists were leaving by 6 pm. The place is worth visiting. We watched a panoramic movie that was spectacular. I can only imagine how much time and effort were spent on making it. The movie takes you to glaciers and places that are difficult to reach, accessible only to the most adventurous. There was another video about behind-the-scenes. The crew spent 3 years on the production! It’s unbelievable.
There were many small experiments to play with, so we weren’t bored at all. Glaciers always seemed so majestic and scary at the same time.
Afterwards, we decided to go a little further to see the glacier with our own eyes. It was after 7 pm, so the area wasn’t busy at all. We first went to Boyabreen Glacier and then to Supphellebreen Glacier viewpoints. I can’t express the feeling of being so close to them. You’re surrounded by powerful nature and feel so small on this planet.
Finally, it was time to head to the cabin we booked for the night. We are staying in a ski resort village with nice wooden cabins along the hill.
Day 4
August 9th 2024
Fosskamben – Lom – Bismo - Teigen Tun
Driving Time: 3:30 hours
Overnight stay: Teigen Tun
Our morning started with heavy rain today. We kept hoping it would stop at some point, but that never happened. I should mention that the place we stayed at overnight didn’t quite meet our expectations. It was okay, but first, we had to make our own beds, and second, only two sets of bed linens and towels were ready. We had to call the host, who brought us the rest at 10 pm. Although he apologized and wasn’t aware that the house was so poorly prepared, the moment was already spoiled. On top of that, the sofa was a bit broken, and in the morning, the oven didn’t work. At least the bathroom was in good condition.
It rained all day, except for a few brief breaks during our three-hour trip to the next location. We had hoped to hike along the way, but with so much water everywhere, it wouldn’t have been wise. Instead, we just set our GPS for the next overnight destination and stopped wherever there was a sign for a viewpoint. And believe me, there were plenty of places where you could park your car and take in the stunning landscape.
We saw so many camper vans rolling up and down the hills—small, big, and huge ones. Norway seems like the perfect place for people traveling in vans. We noticed young couples, families with kids, and elderly couples all enjoying the experience. There are countless van parking spots and overnight places. One day, we might rent a camper van ourselves and set off on a similar adventure. If you’ve ever thought about renting a camper van, Norway is definitely a great starting point.
We traveled from Sogndal to Lom and passed many beautiful places along the way, including fjords, waterfalls, mountains, lakes, and glaciers. At the higher elevations, it felt like we were back in Iceland. The temperature dropped to 9 degrees, so I finally pulled out the hats and gloves we brought from Dubai. It was nice to finally use them!
We visited another church in Lom and paid a rather high entrance fee, but it was worth it in my opinion. The wooden church has such a unique interior, and it's one of the oldest wooden churches in Norway.
For lunch, we stopped at a cozy place in Bismo called Skeid Kro, which served delicious food. One of the staff members didn’t even speak English, which we took as a good sign—it meant the place was popular with locals!
We stayed at Teigen Tun, a truly cozy spot. There are several houses on the property, and we stayed in one that used to be a sheep barn. There’s a whole history to this place: it used to have sheep, but when wolves started attacking, they switched to keeping chickens. Eventually, the buildings were transformed into rental staycations. This place is definitely worth staying in—everything is made with love and a sense of coziness.
Day 5
August 10th
Lom - Norwegian Fjellsenter (National parks museum) - Turistveg: Gamle Strynefjellsvegen Ost – Geiranger – Eidsdal – Linge - Jordbaerstova Hotel
Driving Time: 3 hours
Overnight stay: Jordbaerstova Hotel
I woke up around 2 a.m. and, surprisingly, didn’t feel too tired, even though I had gone to bed pretty late. I looked out the window and saw the stars. An idea came to me to take some photos of the starlit night. I didn’t want to wake up my family, but the problem was that I needed to get the tripod from the car and open the door to the terrace, which was very heavy and made a lot of noise. Somehow, Alex woke up anyway and helped me with everything. I told him it would be noisy, and he was fine with it.
I set up my tripod and camera and even opened my star app, PhotoPills, to see that the Milky Way would be on the right side.
Unfortunately, I didn’t realize that it was too light at this time of year in Norway to capture a good starry sky. In the Northern Hemisphere, you can see the Milky Way from March to October, but in Norway, it’s too bright in the summer, so the best time is either spring or autumn. Well, that’s what I learned at 3 a.m. when I didn’t get the photos I wanted. But at least I learned something new tonight.
The first thing we did was return to Lom to visit the most famous bakery (Bakery in Lom AS) in Norway, as I read in a booklet in the hut we stayed in. We bought cinnamon buns and a raspberry bun, and they were really nice. After that, we went to the Norwegian Fjellsenter, a museum about national parks with great activities for kids. They have exhibits about the Stone Age, hiking, mountains, and weather, all presented in a very engaging way. I enjoyed reading the information, watching the videos, and looking at the exhibits. I particularly liked learning about true stories of people who hiked in the mountains. I also discovered the history of women who started hiking. “Let the triumphs from the mountain hiking to the summits belong to the men – without being jealous,” reads a quote from the article “Some Advice to Female Tourists” in the Norwegian Trekking Association’s yearbook from 1887. But women hiked anyway, even in their long and heavy dresses. Over time, women’s clothing became more practical, but it didn’t happen overnight.
After the museum, we headed west to our next destination, taking the longer but more scenic Turistveg: Gamle Strynefjellsvegen Ost. Unfortunately, it started to rain again, but the road was amazing. This is why traveling by car is so convenient—you can still enjoy the view from the window. The girls even got to touch the snow at the top of the road, where it was 6 degrees outside.
We stopped at Brasserie Posten in Geiranger for lunch. The food was delicious, but Norway is really expensive, especially after Japan, where food was so cheap! But at least the quality here is very good.
Then, we took the next mountain road to Eidsdal, where we caught a ferry to Linge.
Tonight, we’re staying at Jordbaerstova Hotel. Actually, it’s a house with three bedrooms and two shared bathrooms and toilets. We booked two rooms. When we arrived, the lady told us that we’ll most likely be the only ones here because nobody else booked the third room. So, the whole house is ours, and it’s a very traditional place with two floors. It feels like we’re living in a museum—really nice. Breakfast is also included. I’ll share what we get tomorrow because it’s already in the fridge, and it looks delicious.
Day 6
August 11th
Jordbaerstova Hotel - Tafjord Museum – Zakariasdammen – Alesund - Alesund Aquarium – hiking in Sukkertoppen
Driving Time: 3 hours
Overnight stay: Alesund
This morning started with a delicious breakfast that we couldn't even finish.
After packing our suitcases, we set off for our next destination. I found a museum just a 20-minute drive from where we stayed—the Tafjord Museum, located in an old hydropower station. In 1934, a tsunami struck the area, tragically claiming many lives as it happened at 3 a.m. while everyone was sleeping. Only a few people reacted quickly and escaped to the mountains. A massive rockfall triggered the tsunami, which is quite a frightening thought. The museum has an exhibition dedicated to this event, and the other two floors focus on geology, rocks, and hydropower stations. We were the only visitors, and the staff was very friendly and welcoming. We learned something new today, and I highly recommend this place.
A guy at the museum told us about a dam up in the mountains, and since it was a short drive, we decided to check it out. The dam is called Zakariasdammen, and it is impressive! The concrete structure, built between 1966 and 1969, stands 96 meters high.
Our next stop was the town of Alesund, where we planned to stay for the night. Since it was still raining outside, we visited the local aquarium. It looked small from the outside, but we didn’t even manage to see everything in the end before it closed at 5 p.m. In addition to the fish and sea animals, there were many interactive activities for kids, including a room where children could touch sea creatures like starfish, crabs, sea cucumbers, hermit crabs, and anemones. The girls had much fun—I even touched a few things myself.
Afterward, we drove to find parking near the https://maps.app.goo.gl/HPRhSfaRH4jGhkxP8hiking trail that leads to a viewpoint overlooking the city. It was raining a bit, but we managed to hike high enough to enjoy the view.
Unfortunately, we forgot to bring a bottle of water, and the girls started asking for some as soon as we began climbing. This affected their mood, so we decided not to risk it and didn’t go all the way to the top. Traveling with kids isn’t exactly relaxing, but I try to see it differently: it’s a great opportunity to learn something new from each other, from the people and culture around us, to practice patience, and to respect the rules of the country we’re visiting. We try new foods and encourage the kids to keep asking questions and learning.
Our accommodation in Alesund was a nice apartment with a separate entrance. It seems the owner is very passionate about art and music, or possibly involved in them professionally. There were many books about art and an entire shelf of vinyl records. The design was lovely.
Day 7
August 12th
Byrampen Viewpoint – Ålesund downtown - Loen Skylift
Driving Time: 3 hours
Overnight stay: Stryn House Apartments
Today, the sun finally came out, and I was so happy about it. I really wanted to see Ålesund bathed in sunlight, not just under cloudy skies.
The house rules said to wash the dishes, so I suggested we pack everything first, check out, and then find a spot for a small breakfast. Alex ate the leftover spaghetti from yesterday while I washed the dishes, and then we packed up. We found parking downtown and went looking for the right place. We ended up at Racoon Coffee. I had a slice of banana bread and tried a beetroot latte for the first time. The girls chose cinnamon buns and iced tea, while Alex had a cappuccino. We sat outside because it was sunny, and some cheeky sparrows were hopping around under the tables—they eventually got something from Amelia and Milana.
Afterward, we went up to the Byrampen Viewpoint. The stairs were steep, but the view was amazing. The bird’s-eye view of the city made the climb totally worth it.
We then headed down to the harbor and spotted Jafs Fish and Chips cafe right next to the bridge. The girls asked for ice cream, so we bought some and then decided to try their fish and chips because I read on Google reviews that they’re really good. And they were the best fish and chips we’ve ever had—people were right! By then, it was already 1 p.m., and we were lucky to get a table. Half an hour later, all the tables were taken, and there was a queue in front of the kiosk.
After a short walk around downtown, we went back to the car and headed to our next destination.
I should mention that yesterday we realized we forgot to book our stay for tonight, August 12th to 13th. In our family, I usually find all the places, plan the route, and send the details to Alex, who then books everything. This time, he missed it, and I didn’t double-check. I was really upset because the place was nice, with a private beach by the fjord. Of course, it was already booked, so we had to find somewhere else to stay. 99% of the places on Booking and Airbnb were taken, but we somehow found a spot at Stryn House Apartments. Well, it’s not the best, but at least we have beds for the night. On the plus side, the bathroom is big and has Rituals soap and shampoo—that’s something! Always book in advance and double-check everything. We were supposed to stay at Vollsnes Feriehus.
We still had some time, so I suggested going to the Loen Skylift since it’s open until 10 p.m., and we didn’t want to be inside when it was so sunny outside. The temperature was around 18-19 degrees.
The tickets for the lift weren’t cheap—1,500 kr, which is about 127 euros for our family—but I have to say, the experience was worth it. The ride up to the mountain was both exciting and a little scary, and the girls were very excited. When we reached the top, the view was amazing, and we were lucky to have such great weather. It wasn’t as cold as I expected.
We hiked around 3-4 km on the hill and took lots of photos. I felt so happy to be so close to the sky, surrounded by fjords and mountains with snowy peaks. Some of the mountains even had glaciers.
Ålesund town
Car trip and hiking near Loen
Day 8
August 13th
Olden town - Sunnfjord Museum - Nessane
Driving Time: 3 hours
Overnight stay: Nessane
It was sunny in the morning, but as soon as we left the hotel, the sky became covered with clouds. We had to go through the Sky Lift again, and to our astonishment, there was a huge queue of people stretching across the entire bridge over the road. Yesterday, there was hardly anyone, and we went up and down without much wait. It turned out to be a great idea to go in the evening after 5 pm. Thankfully, the lift operates until 10 pm.
Our first stop was at Stabukk Is og Kaffibar, where we ordered waffles with strawberry and raspberry jam. They were so tasty that we ended up ordering two more portions. The city we visited was Olden, and a massive cruise liner had docked that morning. You can’t imagine how many people were out walking, shopping, eating, boarding tourist buses, and kayaking. They were everywhere—both old and young. I believe the queue we saw at the Sky Lift was mostly made up of those tourists from the liner.
After our breakfast break, we visited the Sunnfjord Museum, which features typical Norwegian houses dating back to the 1600s. We also met three adorable goats that loved being fed and petted.
Tonight, we’re staying in a lovely house in Nessane. Tomorrow, we’ll start our journey to Bergen.
The road trip took around 3 hours in total.
Day 9
August 14th
Balestrand - St. Olaf’s Church – Voss city and a Voss rope to the mountain – Bergen
Driving Time: 4-4:30 hours
Overnight stay: Bergen
We said goodbye to our house on the hill with its beautiful fjord view and started our journey to the next destination on the map—Bergen. We made a few stops along the way. My plan was to arrive in Bergen by 4 or 5 pm, but we ended up spending more time on the road and arrived much later. Never expect to cover everything in your plan. Be ready to see less and be happy to cover more. A lesson I keep learning every time we travel.
Our first stop was in the touristy town of Balestrand by the fjord. Just before we arrived, I noticed a pin I had dropped on Google Maps that I’d forgotten about—St. Olaf’s Church. This small, cozy wooden church actually inspired Disney’s creators for Frozen. The interior really does resemble the one from the scene where Elsa is crowned.
We found a nice spot next to the beach where there was a small sauna cabin. It seemed like it might be free for everyone, but I wasn’t sure—there were no signs, no one around. Just three people coming out and resting on beach chairs, while another girl with a backpack went straight into the cabin, and a few seconds later, I saw her in a swimsuit, ready to get sweaty.
The girls had fun on a swing, and after a short break with a wonderful view of the fjord, we went for a walk around town. There were a bunch of tourists waiting for the ferry.
We drove further to the harbor to take a ferry across the fjord. There are many ferries in Norway because the fjords are so deep that it’s hard to build bridges. But every ferry we took in Norway was a pleasant experience.
Our next stop was Voss—the town where the renowned Voss water comes from. :)
It was a long drive, but we stopped at several picturesque places for photos along the way. It rained most of the time—again… 🙈
We parked in town and ordered a small portion of takeaway sushi from Vossa Sushi to eat by the lake with its mountain views.
Then we bought tickets for the Voss Gondol to go up the mountain. There was nobody else in our cabin, so the girls could choose any seat. Luckily, it wasn’t raining in Voss, so we enjoyed walking around the town and hiking in the mountains. It’s a ski resort, and we saw several other gondolas at the summit, though they weren’t operating.
By the time we came down the mountain, it was already 5:50 pm, and we still had 130 km to drive to Bergen. On the way, we stopped at a Shell gas station and grabbed two portions of fries. I know it sounds weird, but only at Shell did we find fries that were actually crunchy. They were made in an air fryer, and since it was our last day in the car, we had to have one last portion of fries in Norway. :)
Munching on fries and listening to Norwegian music, we had no idea what was waiting for us in Bergen. 🙈😂
I tried to find an apartment close to downtown, but I didn’t expect it to be right in the middle of pedestrian streets, surrounded by narrow, one-way streets. Very narrow! The car's navigation took us on the worst route of our lives—narrow, curvy streets that went uphill and downhill. At one point, I just wanted to close my eyes and wake up from this nightmare. 😅🙈 But Alex did an amazing job, and we safely arrived… on the wrong street. 😂 Well, maybe not exactly wrong, but the house we needed was between other houses, with narrow staircases leading down.
We had to find another pin on the other side of the street. Luckily, the Universe helped us, and we found the right street. We unloaded all the suitcases and left them on the pavement with me and the kids while Alex went to find parking. It was drizzling, so we waited outside. When Alex came back, we headed to our apartment. It was on the first floor—no lift, of course. 😂 On the day we needed to haul two big suitcases up the stairs to pack everything for tomorrow’s flight to Stavanger! But somehow, the impossible mission became possible, and we got everything upstairs. The apartment was small but cozy, with windows facing the staircase in that narrow street and another building just three meters away.
It was already 8 pm, but we still wanted to take a walk. The good thing about summer in Norway is that it doesn’t get dark until after 9 pm. Since we had to leave early tomorrow, it was now or never. Plus, we still needed to find parking for the car. Luckily, we were close to the funicular, and it was still running. We decided to go up the mountain, even though the lady at the ticket booth warned us that fog was covering the city view. She said it was starting to clear, so we might get lucky. We were the first ones on the train and got the best seats at the back. More tourists soon arrived, and 25 minutes later, we were ascending the hill. It was fun, and we got to see the city lights for a few minutes before the mist rolled in.
At the summit, we took a few photos before the fog completely covered the view. It was so dense! How lucky we were to catch the view, even for a few minutes!
On the way down, we spent some time with the Kashmir goats and ended up being the last ones to board the train—just two minutes before departure. No surprise, a group of Asian tourists had already taken the best seats with the view, all with their cameras and phones ready.
By the time we got back to the city, it was already 10 pm, and packing awaited us—my least favorite part of any trip. But the kids were hungry, so we popped into the nearest place we could find, which happened to be McDonald’s. Even though it was late, the streets were still full of people, from young to old. In McDonald’s, we saw young people dressed as pirates, fairies, and two men in Scottish kilts. Coming from Dubai, where you don’t see many students, this was something different for us. 😂 The city was really alive at night.
We finally got back to the apartment and packed everything. It was after 11 pm when we went to bed. Tomorrow, another adventure awaits, and we’re looking forward to meeting our friend in Stavanger.
You might wonder why we chose to fly to Stavanger instead of driving. It wasn’t just the distance (3.5 hours) but also the cost. Returning the car in a different location (we rented it in Bergen) would have cost an extra $600, which made no sense at all.
Day 10
August 15th
Bergen – Stavanger – afternoon walk in the city of Stavanger
Flight
Overnight stay: Stavanger
We woke up around 6:30 am and left the house by 8 am to head straight to the airport. The flight was with the Norwegian local operator Wideroe, and it was very short—just 20 minutes. I think even the flight in the Maldives from Male to our island was longer!
Upon arrival, we bought bus tickets online at www.flybussen.no and got on the bus just in time. The trip from the airport to Stavanger took 40 minutes. Our stop was the last, and then we had a 12-minute walk to our new place. It started to rain, but we managed to find our house on Pedersgata street just in time, before the heavy downpour. Luckily, the owner let us in at 12:30 instead of the usual 3 pm check-in time.
Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t promising. We wanted to go out for lunch, but all the places my friend recommended were closed until 3 or 4 pm. So, we decided to take a rest and spent a couple of hours at home. It was still dark outside due to the weather.
At 2:50 pm, we went to the Vietnamese restaurant An Nam, just down the street, and had a nice warm meal of fried rice and pho soup. We arrived just before the place filled up.
Our very good friend lives in Stavanger, which is why we ended our trip here. We met up with him downtown and took a walk along the harbor, where there’s a street lined with cute white wooden houses that used to belong to fishermen in Stavanger. The rain got heavier, so we hid in a cafe and then decided to head back to our
place for evening tea and a chat.
Tomorrow we’re flying to Basel. Norway was wonderful, despite all the rainy days. When I get around to editing my photos from Norway, I’ll do a separate post on my website.