Family trip to Japan. Diary about our trip in spring 2024
Japan has always been my dream destination since childhood. We were supposed to go there in spring 2020, but, as you may have guessed, we had to cancel everything because of COVID-19. I wasn't very disappointed because the girls were still little, and I knew I could better prepare for this special trip. I bought a few books, read several blogs, and watched YouTube videos. We booked hotels on Booking.com and Airbnb in September 2023, so everything was set for our dream vacation in March-April 2024.
Nevertheless, I was very anxious. I was afraid something might go wrong because it would be a long trip with two kids, traveling for three weeks with just two suitcases. We would stay in big cities, and I was preparing myself for long-distance walks.
My knowledge of Japanese helped us a lot, and I am proud of myself for continuing to learn it. I was able to ask for directions a few times when we initially got really lost. It's an amazing feeling when you can understand a bit of the language and the local people understand you.
Kobe - Osaka - Nara Park - Kyoto - car trip to Gifu Prefecture - Tokyo
Day 0 - Arrival in Osaka - Kobe
Day 1 - Kobe:Nunobiki Herb Gardens - Nunobiki Falls - Kobe Nunobiki Ropeway
Day 2 - Osaka:Nakanoshima Museum of Art, Osaka - Nishinomaru Garden - Osaka Castle - Hozen-ji Temple - Shinsaibashi-Suji Shopping Street and Donguri Kyowakoku Namba – Studio Ghibli shop
Day 3 - Nara Park: Araike Enchi Park - Kasuga Taisha - Shinto Shrine - Dinner at Udon cozy cafe
Day 7 - A day trip to Arashiyama: Horin-ji Temple - Nakanoshima Bridge - Park (Ka-sen-hi-ro-ba) - Arashiyama Park Kameyama Area - Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Day 8 - Kyoto: Morning walk in a historical district: Gion Tatsumi Bridge, Hokan-ji Temple (Yasaka no To), Ninenzaka, Shoun Seiryu - Car trip to Tayoma gifu : Ishiyama-dera
Day 9 - Tayoma gifu - Hida no Sato Open Air Museum
Day 10 - A day trip to Ghibli Park
Day 11 - Kakyo Park in Echizen - Lunch by Biwa Lake - Cherry Tree Walk - Shirahige Shrine - Kifune Shrine - Kifune Shrine
Day 12- Near Kyoto. Morning walk - Kannon-do, Sanzen-in - Raigo-in Temple - Lunch in Kyoto - a train to Tokyo
Day 13 - Tokyo: Hie Shrine - Imperial Palace - Akihabara Kotobukiya - Ueno Park - ARK Hills Sengokuyama Mori Tower
Day 14 - Tokyo: Senso-ji temple - Sanyabori Park - Hitoma cafe - Nihonbashi Sakura Street
Day 15 - Tokyo: Shinjuku Gyoen Cherry Tree Area - Photoshoot with a friend - Yoyogi Park (visiting Meiji Jingu) - Lunch at Kanimatsuri Crab Restaurant – best crab ever
Day 16 - flight to Dubai via Singapour (2 days in Singapore)
We arrived in Osaka at 9 pm on March 24th and went through passport control (we had to fill out a disembarkation form, four small papers for each person). Then we received our luggage and filled out customs forms again, this time for one person.
We entered Japan! We asked our relative to collect a pocket Wi-Fi at the airport, which we had booked online before arriving.
After a one-hour drive to Kobe, we had a long sleep. We would stay for 4 nights at our relatives' house.
The 5-hour time difference would take some time to adjust to.
1. Get some cash; many places don’t accept cards. It was advice from my Japanese tutor and I am glad we listened to him!
2. Book a Wi-Fi router online before coming to Japan. We ordered our pocket Wi-Fi here.
2. Add transit cards for your train trips in Japan (go to Apple Wallet – Transit card – add either ICOCA, Suica, or PASMO).
March 25th
Kobe
Our first day in Japan began in Kobe, as we stayed with our relatives for a few days and took trains to Osaka and Nara Park.
The time difference was challenging; we woke up at 11 am and left the house afternoon.
Herb Gardens on the hill
It was raining outside, but we decided to go to Kobe Nunobiki Herb Gardens anyway. I had read about this place, but even my Japanese tutor, who is originally from Kobe, hadn't been there. It was a lovely place to discover. Because of the rain, the park was almost empty.
It was foggy on the hill, so we didn't see the city view, but there were few people, and we enjoyed our time anyway. This garden has various herbs used in perfume, cooking, etc. The ropeway ride itself was a fascinating experience for the girls.
We had to take a train on our first day in Kobe, and it was our first time there, but we managed to find our way. I was personally worried about understanding where to go.
My first impression of Japan was very positive. Everything was clean, people obeyed the rules, kept their distance, and greeted you with a smile wherever you went. Before coming to this enchanting country, I tried not to set my expectations too high. However, I quickly realized I needn't have worried—Japan's charm had a magical effect on us anyway.
March 26th
Osaka
Today, we took a train to Osaka. To be precise, we had to take two trains: first, a metro line, and then we had to find a JR station to catch a rapid train to Osaka. From there, we needed to take one more train to reach Osaka Castle.
However, when we stepped outside, we realized it had started raining heavily, making it unpleasant to walk around in the cold and wet weather.
So, we first went to the Nakanoshima Museum of Art, where a Claude Monet exhibition was being held. Naturally, we went to see it. The second exhibition showcased the work of a Japanese artist, Fukuda Heihachiro, in a retrospective. I loved his work. The girls weren't as impressed, but at least they let us enjoy the museum for a while. There were a lot of people in the Claude Monet Hall, and photography was mostly prohibited, except for a few pieces where a specific sign indicated that photos were allowed. However, the sign stated that you could only take photos of the artwork alone, not as a selfie. It was the first time I had seen such a rule, probably to prevent crowds from gathering in front of the paintings.
When the sun came out, it was the perfect time to explore Osaka Castle. Although we hadn't planned to go inside, the men in our group decided to do so. We skipped the line by purchasing tickets online—ta-da! Just a tip: you can do this too. Kids get in for free, and the tickets are affordable. The view was really nice.
March 27th
Nara Park
The day arrived for our one-day trip to Nara Park, a place I'd heard so much about. Unlike most travel guides that give tips on how to get there from Kyoto, we traveled from Kobe. The ride took us around 2 hours one way. It was a sunny day, and we felt pretty lucky with the weather.
We took the metro to Kobe's main station (Sannomiya) and then a direct train to Nara Station.
Instead of entering through the main entrance of the park, we went to a quieter area off to the right. We tried taiyaki (fish-shaped pastries) from a tiny shop run by an elderly man. We tasted two varieties: one filled with red bean paste and another with sakura paste. I wonder if he really added cherry blossoms in there!
Then we saw our first deer, hiding under the trees. There were many people in the background, and even more around us. It felt crowded, so we turned away from everyone for a quieter experience. We spent about two hours leisurely exploring, enjoying a slow pace without any rush. We even spotted a beautiful sakura tree in bloom. 🌸
The last place we visited was the beautiful Kasuga Taisha shrine. Although we didn't see all the places we had planned, sometimes it's better to take it slow and enjoy the day instead of rushing around with kids.
Before heading back to Kobe, we had dinner at a cozy little udon place. If you're in the area and love udon, I highly recommend this spot! It's run by a friendly, elderly man. We were the last customers, and the place closes at 6 pm.
Visiting Kyoto (28th March – 1st April)
28th March
Kyoto on foot
Accommodation
Our new place to stay in Kyoto is right in the downtown area, close to many attractions. I'm very glad we chose this location, as we didn't want to commute a lot with two kids to get to the main sights.
Lunch
On our first day in Kyoto, we had a guided tour with a Japanese guide. After arriving at the main railway station from Kobe, we barely had time to grab lunch before meeting the guide. We were starving! I found a ramen place that turned out to be a great choice. We had to wait a bit, but it was worth it. The ordering process was interesting: you order from a machine, a lady gives you a sheet of paper to circle your preferences (like the level of spiciness), and then you wait to be seated.
The dining experience was unique. You sit in a cubicle with your order, and a person behind the counter greets you and takes your order slip. After a few minutes, they bring your bowl of ramen, and you enjoy the meal without needing to say anything. You don't see their faces either, which adds to the novelty.
Walking tour in old Kyoto
After lunch, we rushed to meet our guide, whom I had booked online beforehand. He was from Japan and took us on a nice 1.5-hour walk through the Gion district. We managed to get many family photos too—yay! The weather was pretty bad, to be honest, but thankfully, we brought two foldable umbrellas and a light raincoat I had bought last minute at Daiso in Dubai.
The sakura is blooming late this year, so I hope we get to enjoy it soon. I was worried we might miss it, as last year's blossom season was from March 15th to 30th.
March 29th
Kyoto by Bikes
Breakfast
Our breakfast today started with udon! The girls were surprised and said, "Udon for breakfast?" but they ended up enjoying it.
We found an authentic place just a 5-minute walk from where we were staying. Breakfast is served from 7 am to 10 am, and the cafe closes at 10 am. We were among the last to leave, still battling that jet lag!
The menu had only a few options, and everything was self-service, including payment and making change—cash only, as usual. We each got a bowl of udon, and it was delicious.
Location of the udon place: Breakfast Udon Express
Cycling Tour
Today, we also had a family bike tour with a guide, which we booked way back in September 2023. We loved it! I was worried about how the girls would handle it, but they did great!
We booked the guide through: www.cyclekyoto.net
One of our stops was Fushimi Inari Taisha, which was very crowded 🙈, but we still enjoyed it. You can even hike there, but we didn't have time for that.
Location of Fushimi Inari Taisha: Google map.
March 30th
Arashiyama
Today we went on a day trip to Arashiyama.
We took a train to Arashiyama Station, changed trains twice, and arrived in about 20 minutes. Since it was Saturday, there were a lot of people, as expected, but we managed to avoid most of the crowds.
Temples
First Stop: Horin-ji Temple We mostly saw Japanese people here.
We had lunch at a cafe next to the river. We ordered one ramen, one udon, and matcha with Japanese sweets. The cafe was not too crowded, as most tourists seemed to head straight for the bridge.
Name of the Cafe: Nakanoshima-tei
We also enjoyed matcha and cherry blossom-flavored ice creams.
What I love about Japanese vending machines is that they offer warm drinks (a red sign means hot and blue means cold)! I've never seen this anywhere else. If you know of any other places with this feature, let me know! My ability to read a bit of Japanese helped me notice it. We love buying warm milk and lemon tea.
Hiking in nature
Hiking and Walking: We went for a hike up a hill with a fantastic view.
After a pretty long walk, we arrived at Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple, a place with 1200 stone figures. It was a great experience for the whole family!
Information about the Statues: These are rakan, the followers of Buddha, created by everyday people who made a pilgrimage to learn carving under the guidance of Kocho Nishimura. He encouraged them to bring out the unique, personal figures hidden in the stone. Some rakan are posed in deep, serious prayer, while others are smiling, laughing, or holding objects that hint at the carvers’ hobbies and passions.
Sweet Treats
We tried delicious strawberries in sugar icing. There are many sweet treats with strawberries here.
Seafood with discounts in Kyoto
We took the train back. Unable to find anything to eat in Arashiyama, we went to Takashimaya Kyoto S.C. and bought some seafood with great discounts. Malls often have food departments on the underground floor, and in the evening, they offer huge discounts on many fresh items.
March 31st Kyoto. Time to visit temples.
Our day trip to the eastern part of Kyoto was filled with temple visits and ended with a stroll along the Philosopher’s Path.
Instead of taking a bus, we opted for a taxi, which brought us to Higashiyama Jisho-ji, a popular and busy tourist spot. Despite the initial crowds, we quickly found quieter areas as we explored more off-the-beaten-path locations.
After visiting Ginkaku-ji, we turned left away from the main crowds and enjoyed a more peaceful experience. We visited several places:
2) Honenin Temple
3) Reikan-ji Temple
I didn't initially plan to go inside Reikan-ji Temple, but I'm glad we did! The temple grounds were filled with beautiful camellia trees. We walked along the paths and even went inside the temple.
4) Otoyo Shrine
By this point, the girls were starting to get a bit tired of visiting temples, but we managed to visit one last stop: Otoyo Shrine, which had one of the most beautiful cherry trees in bloom. 🌸
5) Philosopher’s Path
We finished our tour here, at the beginning of the famous Philosopher’s Path. While it was full of people, there weren't many trees in bloom, so I didn't take any photos.
Dinner
For dinner, we stopped right after walking the path. The kids were hungry, as usual, so we found a place serving French crepes with various fillings.
BREIZH Cafe Creperie Kyoto
The crepes were thin pancakes filled with egg, cheese, cream, potato, and sausage. It’s a great idea for kids at home! They almost finished everything.
I didn’t order anything for myself since I ate what was left after the girls. Usually, they manage to eat only half of their meal. As a rule, we order two or three meals to share among the four of us.
Gifu Prefecture car trip (April 1st-5th )
April 1st
Gifu Prefecture
I’ll be honest: deciding to rent a car was one of the best choices we made. While Japan's public transportation system is fantastic, traveling with kids changes the game. Walking all day with backpacks full of clothes, water, cameras, and snacks is tough on your back, and kids can get tired, bored, hungry, or just cranky. I was prepared for this, but sometimes it felt like a bit too much
Our 4-day road trip was incredible. Next time, we’ll rent a car right away in Japan. Just make sure to have an international driver's license, or they won’t give you the car.
We paid $300 for 5 days, which is relatively cheap compared to what we’ve paid in the USA, Canada, and Europe. Don’t forget to ask for an ETC card, which lets you pass through tolls without stopping to pay each time. On our return, we had to pay ¥17,500 (about $120).
We rented our car from here: Toyota Rent-a-Car.
We were late booking—only two days before our trip 🙈—and most cars were already taken. However, we found another rental place at Yamashina Station with plenty of cars available. Plus, it was less crowded, and we didn’t have to navigate Kyoto traffic. We headed straight toward Biwa Lake.
Our first stop was less than an hour from where we rented the car. I found this location by chance, and it turned out to be a fantastic start to our trip. We were quite hungry, so we chose a cafe that didn’t look much from the outside but served really delicious Japanese food inside. We ordered two sets and shared them among the four of us. The menu was in Japanese, but thanks to Google Translator, we managed to make our choice.
After lunch, we visited a temple that turned out to be incredibly special:Ishiyama-dera. It was so tranquil and peaceful.
Here, I bought my first Goshuin book. Many temples and shrines have a window where a monk writes kanji and stamps the book with that temple’s or shrine’s seal. Goshuin are large stamps, handwritten by monks, that serve as proof of your visit to a specific site.
My book is particularly special because I bought it with a picture of Murasaki Shikibu, who wrote The Tale of Genji and The Diary of Lady Murasaki. It's believed that she visited this temple and was inspired to write her famous novel.
The experience was unique and personal, with almost nobody around, and we spent a few hours there.
Our Accommodation:
Our next stop was a traditional house in Toyama, Gifu Prefecture. It felt like stepping into a Japanese anime. The house was large and entirely ours, but it had an outdoor toilet, which was just a short walk away . It was cold inside, so we decided to pay extra for AC to warm up the space. The rent didn’t include the AC, so we paid ¥800 for 2 nights.
The bathroom was very fresh, to say the least. I didn’t bathe the kids there, but I took a bath myself, and it was really nice. Japanese bathtubs are deeper than any we’ve seen before, so you’re fully covered by water.
Staying in a traditional house was a real highlight of our trip. Sleeping on tatamis and making our own beds with futons, pillows, and warm blankets was an authentic Japanese experience. We had to roll everything up and put it away during the day, which kept us busy in the mornings and evenings. It felt like we were truly living the Japanese way!
For breakfast, we kept it simple with items from a 7/11 shop—bread, salads, sausages, noodles, and a rice snack with salmon wrapped in seaweed. It was a practical way to start the day and kept us going for a few hours. The girls enjoyed it for a few days but eventually preferred something different.
Our first stop for the day was the Hida no Sato Open Air Museum. This place showcases traditional houses from various eras, starting from the 1600s! It felt a bit like winter with some snow around, but the sun made it more pleasant. Walking inside the historical houses and seeing how people lived was fascinating. Remember to take your shoes off before entering—this is a common practice in Japan, even in fitting rooms at stores like Uniqlo!
There were other places on our list, but with limited time, I had to make choices. I picked Hida no Sato for its lower crowds, which was a great decision.
A stunning alpine area great for hiking and nature exploration.
Each of these spots offers a unique glimpse into Japan's history and natural beauty. I hope you get the chance to visit them if you're in the area!
April 3
Our Rainy Day at Ghibli Park
Despite the weather, our day at Ghibli Park was an adventure!
We were excited for this special day, having secured our tickets two months in advance, but the heavy rain turned the day into a mix of excitement and challenge. We braved the weather with umbrellas and raincoats, but the constant downpour made things less than ideal. The kids’ shoes weren't prepared for such conditions, so they ended up soaked through. 😅
Ghibli Park has both indoor and outdoor areas, so we decided to start with the indoor exhibits at the warehouse, hoping the rain might let up. Unfortunately, it didn’t, but we made the best of it. Walking through Mei and Satsuki’s house from My Neighbor Totoro was a highlight. Even though we couldn’t take many photos inside, exploring the rooms and seeing items just like in the movie was magical.
Post-Park Comforts
After a soggy morning, it was a relief to get back to the car. The air conditioning was a lifesaver, helping to dry our wet shoes and clothes. Traveling by car definitely has its perks—especially when dealing with unexpected weather!
Dinner and Local Finds
For dinner, we stopped at a highway shop where we used a vending machine to order ramen and udon. The food was quick and tasty, and we enjoyed trying various Japanese sweets from a nearby shop. I love how Japanese stores often display the food inside, making it easy to see what you’re getting!
The bathroom featured a deep bathtub and a shower that poured directly onto the floor. After the rainy day, it was nice to have a warm bath for the girls. We had to use the AC and a small air heater to warm up the house, but it was comfortable once we got it sorted.
April 4
Exploring the Countryside in Japan
Our stay in the countryside provided a perfect retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city. The house we stayed in had an incredible view and a cozy feature—a heated blanket under the table! It was a delightful way to keep warm while waiting for the room to heat up with the AC.
Hiking in the mountains
We started our day with a hike through a forest trail aiming to see an ancient cedar tree. The trail was muddy and slippery from the previous day’s rain, making it challenging, especially for the kids. We managed to get halfway up before turning back. Despite the obstacles, the hike was worth it for the beautiful scenery.
Next, we visited Kakyo Park in Echizen. The park was serene, with few visitors and budding cherry trees. It was a peaceful stop with the promise of future blooms.
Kifune Shrine: We ended our day at Kifune Shrine, a beautiful village and shrine. Arriving in the evening meant fewer crowds, which made the visit even more enjoyable. Kifune Shrine Location
Our car journey through the countryside turned out to be a fantastic decision. It allowed us to explore beautiful, less crowded locations and truly experience the charm of rural Japan. The combination of scenic spots, cozy accommodations, and unique experiences made this part of our trip incredibly memorable.
Accommodation:
Before heading to Tokyo, we stayed at a wonderfully peaceful location in Ohara Sensui. It provided a serene and relaxing break from our busy travel schedule.
Our last morning in the countryside was a serene start to the day. We had a modest breakfast with the food we picked up the day before from a nearby 7/11, enjoying the quiet before the day's travels.
Exploring Temples
Instead of heading straight back to Kyoto, we decided to take advantage of our time and explore some renowned temples near our accommodation. The morning walk was beautiful and enriching.
Sanzen-in Temple is a serene temple surrounded by lush greenery, perfect for a reflective walk.
Back in Kyoto, we were on the lookout for a good place to eat before heading to the railway station. We found a lively ramen spot that provided a great dining experience:
Kyoto Ramen Kairikiya - Main Shop
Location of a Ramen Place
This place was a fantastic end to our Kyoto stay. The enthusiastic greetings from the staff and the delicious ramen made for a memorable meal.
Shinkansen Journey
After returning the rental car at Yamashina Station, we made our way to Kyoto’s main station. We took our Shinkansen ride to Tokyo, scanning our tickets electronically for a smooth boarding process.
Unfortunately, the weather did not cooperate, and we missed out on seeing Mt. Fuji. However, this just gives us another reason to return to Japan in the future.
Our time in Japan has been filled with amazing experiences, from vibrant city life to peaceful countryside, and we’re looking forward to the next adventure!
Tokyo April 5th-9th
Accommodation in Tokyo
We arrived in Tokyo in the evening, and it quickly became clear just how vast the city is. The railway station was bustling, but we managed to navigate our way out and took a taxi to our accommodation. We stayed at MIMARU TOKYO AKASAKA, which turned out to be a great location.
Tokyo is enormous, and we knew it was impossible to see everything. We were already a bit tired, so we decided to take it easy and go with the flow. I left my family at the hotel and met up with Mei, a friend from Tokyo whom I hadn’t seen since we first met in the UK in 2006. We had an amazing dinner at the shabu-shabu restaurant Zakuro, which was conveniently close to our place. Zakuro Location
The next day, we took a walk to the Imperial Palace. On the way, we visited Hie Shrine, which turned out to be a lovely spot. Hie Shrine Location
While the Palace itself didn’t particularly impress me—mainly due to the large number of tourists—it was nice to reconnect with friends and explore the city together.
Unfortunately, I didn’t keep a diary while we were in Tokyo, so it’s a bit challenging to recall each day. I’ve put together a list of the places we visited during our 4-day stay in Tokyo::
Imperial Palace
Hie Shrine
Akihabara Kotobukiya
Shinobazu Pond
Ueno Park
ARK Hills Sengokuyama Mori Tower
Visited Nishikubo Hachiman Shrine
Senso-ji Temple
Sanyabori Park
Matsuchiyama Shoden
Shinjuku Gyoen Cherry Tree Area
Shibuya Crossing
Hachiko Memorial statue
Youtube video
I hoped to make more videos but deep down knew it would be too much for me. I took two film cameras, a Canon and a Konica, and the Fuji film I usually use. I didn’t capture much footage, but I decided to create this video to combine photos and videos. Now it's time to print the photos and find a nice place for them to live. I love scrapbooks; they are humble but heartwarming.
I hope you will enjoy watching the video, please share this blog post and youtube video with your friends who love Japan and lets get connected!
I put here the locations we visited or I think are worth visiting while you are in Japan. Please share any other place you think I can include to share with people.
